The more time we spend on the Camino the more we learn.
One of those things, that we thought we knew a lot about and had done a lot of research on, is shoes!
I honestly should’ve kept track, but I know that I tried on and tried out over a dozen pairs of shoes before finally selecting a pair of Topos.
I have a very wide foot and need a large “toe box”. I couldn’t find a new pair of the shoes that I wore on the last Camino and I had actually worn out those shoes several years ago.
The Topos seemed to fit the bill. They were extremely comfortable, they were wide and had a forgiving sole (much like the forgiving soul of my wife)❤️
Issues arose on the first 10 days of the Camino and the blister count just seemed to continue to mount. By the time we got to Burgos, I had five sizable blisters on my right foot!
after a lifetime in the Martial Arts, my feet are built kind of funky and a lifetime of damage has misshapen them; I simply assumed that the blisters were part of the price I was paying for the abuse that I put my feet through.
as we prepared to leave Burgos I set my shoes on the footstool in our bedroom and noticed what I thought might be the source of the problem; the soul of the shoe for my right foot was obviously crooked! It’s leaned substantially from right to left!
I Contacted the manufacturer and explain to them my dilemma, I love the feel of the shoes, but the manufacturing defect was obvious, and I believed a source of my issues; Their response was less than reassuring.
They explained that they were happy to back up the warranty, either themselves or through REI, from which they were purchased, and I explained that that was very nice, but how did I get the replacements in Spain? They said I can’t! The conversation deteriorated from there with them ultimately offering a replacement that they would send any place in the USA (no help) or they would give me a coupon good for up to three pairs of shoes at a 50% off (no help for my current dilemma). They have dealers in Europe, but for some reason so they can’t ship a replacement pair to Europe! When I asked how they could have dealers here selling the shoes, but they couldn’t send me a pair the conversation hit an impasse.
I am now the proud owner of a pair of Quechua MH500 WTP Trail Shoes and with over 100 miles on them and still time to go on the Camino I am very happy. (And will never, ever recommend topo to anybody)
LEAVING BURGOS
Burgos was a beautiful city, wonderful hospitality, lots of architecture and everywhere we went we saw parents and grandparents with children in the parks, the squares, and the shopping areas.
The entire city had a wonderful family feel and was clean and receptive to us as American tourists. It was the last bit of comfort for over 100 miles!
The entire city had a wonderful family feel and was clean and receptive to us as American tourists. It was the last bit of comfort for over 100 miles!
BURGOS TO RABÉ
They say the Camino has four “spiritual/philosophical” sections.
The first is “The Body”.
This Section is the beginning of the Camino and continues to Burgos. It’s called “The Body” primarily due to the strenuous physical demands of the steep hills and tough climbs.
The next section, which we are now on, has the “ Philosophical/spiritual” name of “The Mind“; but it’s commonly known as “the Desert”.This week we learned the reality of “the Desert”!
It’s one of those things you can look at pictures of and read about, but you can’t really understand it until you’re a part of it.
The formal name is “ The Meseta”and although it’s not a real desert, the name pretty well describes it. It is empty, desolate, and in my opinion depressing.
There are almost no services in each 10-15 mile hike. We must be prepared to spend the day in direct sunshine, literally no relief, sparse water, no stores, few villages and very important for Brenda no bathrooms!
Each day pilgrims, must approach, each section prepared to make the entire days travel with no support at all! This doesn’t mean there is absolutely zero support along the whole trail. There are albergues sparse, though they may be, and (very) few cafés.
Each day pilgrims, must approach, each section prepared to make the entire days travel with no support at all! This doesn’t mean there is absolutely zero support along the whole trail. There are albergues sparse, though they may be, and (very) few cafés.
We were told the majority of pilgrims actually skip this section between Burgos and Leon but, since it’s part of the Camino, we opted to face the challenge.
We try to find SOMETHING of interest but when you read about the barren landscapes words simply cannot describe the lonely expanses that make up this section.
We rarely see another pilgrim. This time of year many of the hostels are already closed, finding someplace to stay is a challenge and must be addressed in advance because the few rooms that are available are typically booked well in advance and pilgrims are in late and out early in order to get through this area as quickly as possible.
this section is referenced as “The Mind” because some believe that the total solitude and the agoraphobia inducing expanses force one to be introspective and engage in self examination. I just find it depressing.
We broke The Meseta” into daily sections based on distance and terrain but quickly found the only real difference in each section was availability of beds and food, everything was the same!
Out of Rabé and out of the comfort of villages and friendly faces
Although the night skies can be beautiful because of the lack of background lighting normally found in cities and towns, the same empty skies can be miserable during the daytime even on days that are only 65 or 70°F. We think of this as comfortable temperature until you’re in unfiltered sunshine for 5 to 8 hours every day! This ceaseless sun exposure (some days with no shade and virtually no breeze) can certainly be considered one of the reasons this section is in fact called “the desert”.
ON TO CASTROJERIZ AND BEYOND
13 miles of desolate fields and roads never saw a farmer or a pilgrim.
like many of these towns along this section of the Camino, no matter what time of day you arrive the streets are deserted. You may find a couple of locals in the one or two small cafés, but it’s nothing like Burgos or the cities where there are town, squares, and constant life and activities.
like many of these towns along this section of the Camino, no matter what time of day you arrive the streets are deserted. You may find a couple of locals in the one or two small cafés, but it’s nothing like Burgos or the cities where there are town, squares, and constant life and activities.
BEYOND
it’s hard to admit, but as we traveled through town after town Fromista, Poblicion de Campos, Terradillos de Los Planos, Suhagun and on to Mansilla (our last stop before Leon) day after day with nothing but expansive vistas of nothingness we both felt bone weary and desensitized to to the few things that might have been attractive on this portion of our trip.
LAST THOUGHTS BEFORE LEON
Honestly , we want to make every post interesting and memorable, The Dessert makes this virtually impossible.
I believe if I were to do the Camino again this is a section that I would probably skip as I see no redeeming value in the torturous, empty expanse.
I believe if I were to do the Camino again this is a section that I would probably skip as I see no redeeming value in the torturous, empty expanse.
Buen? Camino
